Marx-Etzel-style one-piece shoe

A few things to note:

To size this pattern to your own foot, you may need to stretch the proportions somewhat. Your foot should generally fit within the outline, and I recommend trying it out using a cut-up paper grocery bag covered in duct tape to adapt the pattern and make it fit you. You can then save that mock-up as a template for future shoes, adjusting it as needed once you’ve worn your first pair for a while.

To check the fit of your mock-up (wearing whatever socks or insoles you intend to wear), the width of the flat pattern across the ball of the foot and at the instep should be 3/4″ to 1″ less than the circumference of your foot at those points. Another way to check is that, when laced tightly, the thong should still form a zig-zag (see illustration); if the thong pulls straight, the pattern is too big and you won’t get a snug fit once you’ve worn it around and the leather starts to stretch.

The seams at the heel are color-coded to indicate what gets sewn to what. The originals were sewn together using an edge-flesh whipstitch, which you can see in this diagram in the original publication. You can also try decorating them with simple triangular stamped patterns and incised lines like the original.

To lace them, I like to use a single thong. I start with a knot at one end of the thong and go through the slit at point A from outside to inside. From there, thread it through the slits around the toe, inside to outside, until you reach point B. Pull tightly to draw the toebox together, then continue to C, D, and E and continue to alternate. I find it’s best to do this with the toe area of the leather soaked in water for a bit. Wear them around the house a bit to let the toebox mold to your foot. When you’re satisfied, set the shoes aside to dry fully and then feed them oil and/or tallow until they are soft and comfortable.

Obenaltendorf shoe with single thong to lace